The Sadya

We all take trouble to learn how to manage with the inadequate fork, knife and spoon, to conform to the norm. The more adventurous, amongst us, even venture to balance strands of those un-obliging & slithery noodles between chopsticks, whilst carrying on a casual conversation, all the while wearing an indifferent look...... been there.....done that, sort of...

 Wonder though, how many of us Keralites, know the art of serving & relishing a “SADYA”. It is not just about putting it all there on the leaf.... and then polishing it off.

 There apparently is a science as to what is being served where... and when.

 Timing the consumption of each delicacy, some individually, and others in strict combinations, is another matter that merits serious attention and rigorous discipline.

So here’s the when, how & whys of the Sadya delight .

History:

The grandiose saying “Naalum Kootty Unnuka” essentially implies that the 4,(repeat four)  accompaniments were all that was required to complete a  sumptuous sadya. Those were the modest Kaalan & Olan and the unassuming Erissery & Pulissery.

With time, came the changes we now know.

Even where vegetables are concerned, yam(chena), ash gourd (kumbalanga), colacassia (Chembu), red pumkin (Mathanga), snake gourd (Padavalam), long beans (achinga),bitter gourd (pavakka), drumstick, raw banana (pacha kaya) was all that we required to make a sadya. Now, the “English” vegetables have sneaked their way in. 

Serving:

  First, let us learn to lay the leaf –tender banana leaves are picked for this. The narrow end of the leaf should be on your left.

Start serving the fried items like chips, sharkaravaratti, pappadum & a small banana on the left hand lower half of the leaf, closer to the diner.

Starting from the left on the upper part of the leaf, place the pickles, Puli inji, Inji thayir, Pachadi, Kichadi,Kaalan, Olan, Erissery, Aviyal, Mezhukkupuratti &Thoran in that order, from left to right.(There are local variations like the Vada curry in South, Potato stew(prounced ISHTU) in the Travancore region & Theeyal in North Kerala, which finds it space between the erissery & aviyal.)

Rice is served on the lower half of the leaf.

Ingestion

Now, the diner separates a little rice to be eaten with dhal, ghee & a small pappadum crushed into it.

Next, is the Sambar. A little more rice can be taken aside for this & a depression is made in the centre, so that the sambar doesn’t flow out of the leaf. With this course, the thoran, erissery & the other dishes can be tasted.

Munch on the chips & sharkaravaratti in between.

It’s the turn of the rasam now. Rasam is watery, so be careful when it’s being served. (Folding the lower end of the leaf inward will help restrain its flow.)

After this, the first prathaman is brought. Generally, a white & brown prathaman will be on the list.

First the brown jaggery based one-either ada/wheat/banana/jackfruit payasam is served. To enjoy this, crush a pappadum & a small banana into the payasam, mix & enjoy. After this, you are expected to eat a little Olan (which is bland) to get rid of the sweetness of the first payasam. A lick of the Puli inji also helps.

Next, the sugar based payasam is served. It can be anything from Ada,rice or vermicelli.

Now a days people prefer to drink the payasam from a cup, but then you don’t get the full satisfaction of licking your hand from the base of your wrist band  to the very ends of your  finger tip---in one loud, long, lingering slurp! ...please do look around though....., lest you might offend those that are less immune to culture shocks, the way we do.)

Burp ...  (a little  ... to express your satisfaction  ... and not so much as to elicit disgust!)

To finish the Sadya, a little more rice is served to be eaten with Moru (butter milk).  

 Finish whatever is left on the leaf & fold the leaf inward, before you leave the table. 

The Sadya is washed down with a glass of warm “ Karingali  or jeeraka wellam” which aides digestion.   

PS : Just in case, I’ve taken all the joy of polishing a sadya .... Just go ahead and do what your heart tells you to do. I’ll still justify you... Thats what ONAM is all about.

Eat while its harvest time !

Pachadi (Traditional Fare)

With Onam round the corner, its occasion for two Pachadi recipes. No Sadya is complete without this. This is also known as Kichadi in some parts of Kerala.

Beet root Pachadi:

INGREDIENTS:

Beet root: 1

Curd: 1 cup (200 ml)

Onion: 1 chopped fine

Green chilli: 3 chopped

Coriander leaves: 1 tbsp chopped

Salt to taste

METHOD:

Pressure cook the beet root whole. Cool, skin it & grate fine.

In a large bowl, mix the grated beet root with chopped onion, green chilli, coriander leaves & salt.

Before serving pour the curd.

It tastes better if served chilled.

Ash gourd Pachadi (Kumbalangha Pachadi)

INGREDIENTS:

Ash gourd: 250 g chopped fine

Curd: 1 cup

Coconut: 1 cup grated

Green chilli: 4

Mustard seeds: ½ tsp

Salt to taste

For tempering:

Mustard seeds: ½ tsp

Fenugreek: 1/8 tsp

Dry red chilli: 2

Curry leaves: a few

Coconut oil: 1 tbsp

  METHOD:

Cook the ash gourd with half a cup of water & salt till done.

Meanwhile, grind coconut with green chilli & curd to a fine paste.

Add half a teaspoon mustard & crush it coarsely with the coconut paste.

Pour the paste into the cooked ash gourd, stir well till it heats through.

Add salt.

In a kadai, heat oil, splutter mustard seeds & fenugreek.

Add dry red chilli & curry leaves.

Pour into prepared pachadi.

Madras cucumber/vellari, fried ladies finger or bitter gourd are also used to make yummy pachadi.  

ERISSERY (Maami's Corner)

Another dish that is a must at a KERALA SADYA!

Combinations can vary, though, the most common one is the pumpkin & red beans (vanpayar). Raw jackfruit can be used when in season.Yam, raw papaya & banana too can be used in this preparation.

INGREDIENTS:

Pumpkin: 250 g

Red beans: ½ cup

Coconut grating: 1cup

Green chilli: 3

Cumin seeds: ½ tsp

Turmeric powder: ¼ tsp

Red chilli powder: ½ tsp

Shallots: 6 sliced

Curry leaves

Mustard seeds: ¼ tsp

Dry red chilli: 2

Coconut oil: 2 tsps

Salt to taste

METHOD:

Soak beans for 6 to 8 hours, or overnight.

Pressure cook with 1 cup water for 10 minutes.

In another vessel, cook cubed pumpkin with turmeric, chilli powder & ½ a cup of water.

When half done, add the cooked beans & salt.

Grind half the coconut with cumin, green chilli & a few curry leaves to a coarse paste.

Add the paste to beans-pumpkin & boil for 3 minutes.

Check for salt & take off.

Heat oil in a kadai, crackle mustard seeds, add shallots, red chilli cut in two, curry leaves & remaining coconut. Fry till they brown.

Pour into the prepared ERISSERY & serve. 

Paal payasam (Quick Fix) onam special

INGREDIENTS:

Raw rice: 50 g (a handful)

Milk: 1 litre

Sweetened condensed milk: 1 tin

Sugar: 2 tbsp

Salt: a pinch

METHOD:

Pressure cook washed & soaked rice in milk for 15 minutes.

After steam goes, pour the condensed milk, stir well.

Add sugar & a pinch of salt.

Rest the payasam for 10 minutes before serving.

NOTE: Generally, paalpayasam in Kerala is not flavoured with cardamom. But rice kheer in the North, similar to this payasam, is not only flavoured but dry fruits are also added to it. 

Kadala pradhaman (Traditional Fare) Onam special

Pradhamans/Payasams normally takes a long time to prepare, but with instant coconut milk it can be made in a jiffy.

INGREDIENTS:

Channa dhal/Bengal gram dhal: 250 g

Jaggery: 200 g

Coconut milk powder: 5 tbsps                                                                                                                   

Water: 750ml

Coconut: 1/2cup grated

Raisins: 25 g

Cashew nuts: 25 g

Ghee: 3 tbsps

Cumin powder: ½ tsp

Dry gingerpowder: 1/2tsp
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

METHOD:

Pressure cook dhal with 2 cups water till soft.

Mix the coconut milk powder in water & keep aside.

Melt jaggery in half a cup of water, cool & strain to remove dirt.

In a heavy bottomed pan, add the cooked dhal & pour the jaggery syrup.

Cook till it is reduced to a thick paste, add ghee in between & keep stirring till it reaches a soft ball consistency (the taste depends on this, so do it patiently).

Now, pour coconut milk. Bring to boil.

In a small pan heat ghee, fry nuts, raisins & coconut till brown.

Pour into pradhaman & add the flavourings.

Let it rest for sometime before serving.

NOTE:

Another variation is the green gram dhal pradhaman. Method remains the same.

Olan (Maami's Corner) Onam special

This is one of the must-haves for any Sadya, and very easy to make.

INGREDIENTS:

  Ash gourd/white pumkin/"Kumbalanga: 250 g

Yam/chena: 100 g

Cow peas/red/Vanpayar: ½ cup

Coconut milk: 1/2cup (thick)

Green chilli: 5

Coconut oil: 1 tbsp

Curry leaves

Salt to taste

METHOD:

Soak beans overnight. Cook the beans well & keep aside.

In a pan, cook ash gourd & yam with green chilli & salt in three fourth cup of water.

Then, add the cooked beans, let the water evaporate, if there’s any.

Now, pour thick coconut milk, do not boil.

Adjust salt, pour coconut oil & drop in the curry leaves.

Cover & keep for sometime before serving.

Even though traditionally the red variety (called "vanpayar") is used, I have used white ones. 

Puli Inji(Traditional Fare) Onam special

Onam is round the corner. No ONASADYA is complete without this Puli inji.

You can make this ahead of time & store it. Tastes better this way.

INGREDIENTS:

Ginger: 50 g

Shallots: 5 chopped fine

Green chilli: 2 chopped fine

Red chilli powder: 2 tsps

Coriander powder: 2 tsps

Turmeric powder: 1/4tsp

Asafoetida: a pinch

Tamarind paste: 1 tbsp (if using whole tamarind, take a lime sized ball & soak in water)

Jaggery/sugar: 2 tbsps

Oil: 2 tbsps

Mustard seeds: ½ tsp

Dry red chilli: 2

Curry leaves

Salt to taste

METHOD:

Peel & slice ginger into small pieces & fry in 2 tbsps oil. Remove & grind in a mixi.

In the remaining oil, splutter mustard seeds, add dry red chilli, curry leaves & asafoetida.

Now, add shallots, green chilli & the powders. Sauté well & add tamarind paste with ½ cup water.

Add ground ginger.

Boil well, add jaggery & salt.

Cool & bottle.  

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Arachuvitta Sambar (Maami’s Corner)